August 23, 2021
We tried to re-capture the curvilinear ikats
Using regional traditional techniques of Ikat and Jala, the couturier has given
a contemporary language to the classic temple border of ‘kumbha’ by
reinterpreting it in different ways.From rural West Bengal, Eka by Rina Singh is
presenting hand spun and woven textile using the technique of ‘Kata Makur Kaj’,
as called in rural Bengal or ‘Cut Shuttle’ in layman language. "Musiri is well
known for good quality cotton, predominantly used for saree," says Naushad who
explains how he epicycles the traditional materials. From deep indigo blue to
pastel mint green, Karishma has used a colour palate of eight to nine colours
along with a lot of white and silver zari. The clothes have to be contextual to
our functional lives and I have tried to give it more shape, forms, and
technique that you wouldn’t see in this textile, inherently.Her designs will
have a special focus on Odisha and will introduce hand woven khadi textures and
fabrics. "The process is much slower, time-consuming and we work for four months
on creating the fabric. Naushad further explains that with sustainable fabric, a
weaver can only make 1.
We tried to re-capture the curvilinear ikats and have
worked on a range of Ikat textiles known for their intricate and fine lines,
almost like thin pencil drawings," says Gunjan adding that her designs also
narrates the story of a 500-year-old textile tree between Odisha and South East
Asia. Keeping the same quality as the base fabric, we have removed the borders
and put gold throughout the fabric in simple checks," explains Naushad who has
also done a lot of layering, trench coats, and bold jackets. "It’s a simple
fabric but with an interesting grid pattern—that’s its trademark.Over the last
few decades, Indian fashion designers have made their mark in the global market
with their sartorial designs. It is handmade and the amount of human hours it
takes is precious. But now, designers and entrepreneurs are looking to showcase
fabrics and weaves that are an intrinsic part of India’s heritage, thereby
encouraging sustainability.From Rajasthan’s Kota Doira to Odisha’s tussar silk
sarees, the stage will also be celebrating women spinners and weavers.We have
worked with the traditional motif but with a slightly modern twist, like polka
dots but with zari and their traditional white colours," explains Karishma. It
is not expensive because of its sustainability, but because of the process that
is involved," he says. Inspired by the Chausat Yogini Temple, the 64 tantric
female deities of Odisha, designer Gunjun Jain’s Yogini collection celebrates
womanhood representing varied expressions of modern-day Yoginis through
handwoven sarees styled in experimental drapes teamed with workwear blouses. For
instance, gold plays an important role in the saree down south and is usually
seen China Pu
waterproof Mattress Cover Fabric manufacturer on the borders. "For instance,
a stitch saree dress can be worn during the day or at an event.5meters a day.A
weaver engaged in the work of weaving. "We have done a cut shuttle technique
which was earlier used in saree borders but not anymore as it is time-consuming
and is expensive. But it is so interesting that I have increased the weight of
the fabric in khadi, done a cut shuttle where I have done a colour
contrast.Designer Karishma Shahani Khan who will be presenting the work of Kota
Women Weavers Organisation from Rajasthan has picked Kota Doria - a fine fabric
made of a blend of silk and cotton, to showcase her designs. "A lot of effort
goes into making a fabric giving an end product so pure that it cant be
replicated by a machine.But, how viable is our sustainable fashion market?
Experts believe that fashion is no longer just about trends and innovative
designs, it is also a means to encourage dialogue on sustainable choices.
Karishma seconds his opinion and adds that one needs to understand where the
product is coming from. "Predominantly made by women, the fabric is sheer and
light in nature despite using a lot of zari work.. It is but obvious for the
fabric to be expensive. We have also used woodblock in chintz print on the
fabric," says Rina whose collection also features Sojani embroidery from Kashmir
on woolen dresses, khadi, and linen. The idea behind the sustainable movement is
to make the fashion industry more socially responsible by helping the artisans
and weavers who work on traditional themes. The designer describes Kota Doria as
a fabric with a very translucent qualy yet not fragile. In its seventh year, the
upcoming edition of Lakme Fashion Week will celebrate such indigenous crafts and
artisans through a series of curated shows that seeks collaboration between
skilled artisans and innovative designers from around the country. But over a
period of time, it has lost its place in textile list," says Karishma whose
label Ka-Sha along with Craftmark has given a modern twist to this traditional
piece of fabric thats mainly used for saree or dress. "We don’t use the material
or the fabric as it is as our aim is to have customers buy and wear it. The best
thing about the fabric is, you can wear it in any season," she smiles.Since
2012, there have been constant efforts in bringing to fore craftsmen and their
work and the upcoming edition of the fashion week will see handwoven fabrics
from Rajasthan and Odisha, intricate khadi weaves, Kanjivaram and ecological
fibres. While brands such as Indigene and THREE have collaborated with weavers
from in Odisha and Bihar, designers such as Naushad Ali will present a
collection of handloom trench coats, trousers, dresses and jumpsuits made by the
Musiri weavers in Tiruchirappalli. It moves through multiple hands and not a
machine," she stresses.This year will also see digitally driven designer-artisan
collaboration with three clusters and designers
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